Red marks, texture, large pores and pigmentation.
What is acne scaring and how can you prevent and fix it? Find out below in my complete acne scarring guide discussing everything from prevention to skincare products, facial treatments, and my favorite food + supplement support.

How can I reduce my acne scarring? This is one of the most common concerns and questions I receive as an esthetician (and former cystic acne sufferer). If you’re experiencing acne it is tempting to rush right into repair mode, but skin healing has to happen in levels. Reducing inflammation, nurturing your moisture barrier and dealing with active acne must happen first. Working on residual scarring usually comes along with some form of stimulating or resurfacing course of action and I see many people aggravate their skin and acne more by trying to do everything all at once. With my acne clients we address inflammation, then congestion, and finally graduate to focusing on acne scarring if needed. Of course, there are ways to help prevent acne scarring throughout our skin journeys (that we are going to uncover later) along with different types of acne scarring, beneficial ingredients, my top product picks, professional treatments, and supportive skin food below.

Cystic acne is due to antibiotic-resistant streptococcus bacteria in the lymphatic system building up and creating scar tissue underneath the derma. Acne scarring happens because of intense trauma to the skin that results in an interruption of the wound healing process. It is important to identify and understand what kind of acne scarring can occur before deciding the best ways to treat it.

TYPES OF ACNE SCARRING EXPLAINED

Atrophic Scarring - Loss of collagen or damage to the pore and follicle leaving a pitted or indented scar that can be identified as: icepick, rolling, or boxcar scars. Atrophic scars form when the skin is unable to regenerate tissue. As a result, it leaves behind imbalanced scarring and texture.

Ice pick - Are narrow, V-shaped scars extend far under the skin’s surface making these scars the hardest scars to treat, and most visible appearing as round holes on the skin. 

Rolling - Can happen because of bands of scar tissue that form under the skin. They give the surface of the skin a rolling and uneven appearance. They also develop because of dermal tethering to the subcutis tissue. They're typically 4 to 5 millimeters wide and give a rolling or undulating appearance to the skin.

Box car - Are wide crater shaped scars that can be deep or shallow. Skin depressions form after an inflammatory breakout destroys natural collagen. The shallower they are, the faster they will respond to any skin treatments.

Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) - happens when blood flow is stopped during the inflammation stage. Any damage to the blood vessels can cause the red or pink marks that appear on the skin. Your skin is usually thinner as it heals and this might make erythema more apparent. PIE can range from very light pink, red, and deep purple. Popping, squeezing, and picking at your pimples can increase trauma to the skin and damage blood vessels - so hands off!

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) - is abnormal melanin deposition triggered by the way skin regenerates after inflammation or injury. Medical Medium teaches that pigmentation is linked to heavy metals and toxins inside of the body: Dark spots are caused by internally produced dermatoxins made of one-half methylated aluminum and the other half a mix of methylated cadmium, nickel, lead, and mercury; different types of spots depend on the composition of that second half.

Now that we understand the differences, let's explore ways to treat acne scarring. Atrophic scarring can be difficult because of the damage to the pore and follicle usually requiring professional intervention, but PIE and PIH can both fade on their own with time depending on the severity.

SKINCARE + PREVENTION

My go-to for all types of acne scarring is the Rescue Epidermal Repair Serum. This potent serum helps activate epidermal wound and DNA repair targeting skin texture, pores and spots. Rescue helps to strengthen the skin’s immunity by restoring its oxygen fighting power and Decreases the inflammation present in the skin helping the healing process to resume.

Facial Massage is one of the oldest forms of therapy and a powerful method of healing. Facial massage can help increase circulation and draw out toxins from the skin by clearing blockages and encouraging movement of lymphatic fluid and blood so that the skin can function better

Red Light therapy is favored by estheticians and skin enthusiasts because it accelerates skin healing. It utilizes light energy in different electro-magnetic spectrums to stimulate fibroblast growth factors. Red light therapy is a noninvasive way to stimulate collagen formation resulting in a more plump, smooth and glowing complexion.  

Atrophic Scarring

Skincare results greatly depends on the type and severity, but StemFactor Growth Factor Serum is one of my favorites for repairing damaged skin.

StemFactor Growth Factor Serum is the most clinically proven and technologically advanced growth factor serum utilizes patented methods to feed stem cells and fibroblasts to replenish the skin’s shortage of growth factors and proteins. StemFactor improves all aspects of damage and aging by encouraging the skin’s repair process and stimulating new cell development for youthful skin.

Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE)

Being gentle with your skin can help prevent PIE. Rough scrubs, harsh ingredients and aggressively stripping your skin’s moisture barrier, along with picking and squeezing the skin can make PIE worse. Time and patience truly can help with fading PIE, but here are two of my favorite skincare products to help speed things along:

Calm Gentle Retinal Serum - Contains antioxidants and many soothing botanicals like  wild cherry bark and sea buckthorn berry to restore the lipid barrier and reduce inflammation. This gentle vitamin A serum calms sensitive skin and encourages innate cell renewal processes while reducing redness.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

The faster your skin’s cellular turnover is the faster you can reduce PIH revealing brighter skin beneath. An Osmosis Vitamin A serum that can help with this is:

Correct Preventative Retinal Serum - Contains retinaldehyde to promote cell turnover to lessen pigmentation and brighten overall skin tone. This serum also uses dimethyl Sulfone (MSM) , an organic sulfur compound that strengthens skin’s support structure to promote the synthesis of proteins and connective tissue.

SUPPORTIVE POST-ACNE SKINCARE INGREDIENTS:

Vitamin A
Vitamin C
Niacinamide B3
Licorice root
Sweet potato
Fruit enzymes such as papaya, pineapple or cranberry
Peptides and amino acids
Beta-glucan
MSM
Mandelic acid
Lactic acid
Salicylic acid
Aloe
Honey
Pumpkin
Algae
Elderberry
Rose
Bearberry
Rosehip
Sea buckthorn
Pomegranate seed oil
Olive leaf
Calendula

Home care is a crucial step in skin care. You have the opportunity to spend much more time with your skin than any skin professional could. But seeking out a pro can help take your skin to the next level, and they can also help select the best supportive skin care and treatments for glowing results.

FACIAL TREATMENTS

Choosing which treatment route to take really depends on the type of scar and the severity. It is important to recognize that medical help from a dermatologist could be required.

Two services I specialize in that can be beneficial for acne scarring are Microchanneling and the Zena Algae Peel:

BEFORE AND AFTER:

The Osmosis Vitamin A Infusion - is a non-acid, calming, anti-bacterial, dermal remodeling facial treatment that is safe for any skin type and nearly every skin condition. This non-inflammatory non-acid peel is unique and extremely effective with no down time or epidermal damage that is associated with average chemical acid exfoliation.

Microchanneling - Using the Osmosis RevitaPen. This holistic, no-needles, highly effective collagen induction treatment increases fibroblast activity without causing trauma to the skin and accelerates results for up to 30 days of continuous collagen formation. By stimulating the outermost layers of the skin, microchanneling will help jump-start your skin’s natural renewal process just waiting to be activated.

Zena Algae Peel - Is a non-acid peel that uses high quality natural seaweed crystals to renew the skin. The tiny micro spicules in the mineral rich algae powder contain antibacterial, and antiseptic properties and allow for intense penetration that will act on the epidermis to stimulate a healing response and increase blood circulation to the skin.

5 other acne scar treatments to look into:

The following treatments should be performed by a dermatologist or in a medical spa setting. Always do your own research and have more than one consultation to make sure you feel comfortable with your skin professional and understand pre and post care.

Fraxel Laser - The Fraxel laser technology is based on the body's ability to heal itself, creating a controlled injury to produce healthy skin tissue and replace damaged cells. Fraxel laser is said to be an effective treatment for mild to medium-depth acne scars.

Professional Strength Peels - Medium to deep depth peels help to make scars go from deep to shallow reducing their appearance.

Microneedling - performed in a professional setting with the appropriate depth of needles to help reduce scarring and promote a collagen boosting wound healing response. 

Intense pulsed light (IPL) -  Use waves of light to address a range of skin concerns like acne scars, skin discoloration and hyperpigmentation. You may hear this treatment referred to as an IPL photofacial or IPL photorejuvenation.

BroadBand Light (BBL)™ - Is a very powerful and precise light-based device that can be used to target redness resulting from acne scarring. The light energy delivered by BBL can target redness and brown spots by gently heating the upper layers of the skin.

Now that we have uncovered ways to topically support acne scar healing, let’s learn about ways to support our skin from within.

SKIN FOOD

Oxygen and nutrient rich blood flow from within are crucial for skin healing and rejuvenation. Smoking, vaping and high fat diets can reduce oxygen levels delivered to the dermis; less oxygen means that the toxins can’t be flushed out of the skin properly and decreases skin nutrition and its ability to rejuvenate itself from within.

Here are my top 4 favorite foods to support acne scar healing from within:

Celery Juice - Works wonders for the skin because of sodium cluster salts, coumarins, and Vitamin C. It is preventative and restorative. Celery juice’s sodium cluster salts act as an antiseptic and expose and destroy strep bacteria. Celery juice also strengthens the immune system so it can help kill off the strep and help prevent it from becoming acne in the future. Coumarins from celery juice travel to the top of the skin and reinvigorate skin cells from the inside out. This results in less skin cell death, less deterioration, and it supports nerves and blood flow. You may take vitamin C supplements and that is important, but the vitamin C found in celery juice is different in that it doesn’t need to be converted. Vitamin C restores the livers immune system and supports collagen formation. 

Heavy Metal Detox Smoothie - This smoothie is perfectly designed to include five key ingredients (wild blueberries, cilantro, Atlantic dulse, spirulina, and barley grass juice powder) that work together in synergy to pull heavy metals like mercury, lead, aluminum, nickel, copper, and cadmium out of your organs where they accumulate. Over time toxic heavy metals can oxidize, causing damage to surrounding tissue and promoting inflammation. They literally poison our bodies, and can inflict damage on virtually every system and organ. Heavy metals can serve as a feeding ground for acne causing streptococcus, so including these ingredients or this smoothie into your daily routine could help prevent acne and scarring. The root cause of dark spots and pigmentation is heavy metals, enjoying this tasty smoothie can be a simple way to support brightening your skin from within. The Brain Saver Books - Anthony William contain easy to follow pigmentation clearing protocols that might be insightful.

Asparagus - Is nutrient packed full of skin supportive chlorophyll, amino acids, antioxidants and minerals such as silica to help support connective tissues.

Beta-carotene rich foods - Are critical for healthy skin, and it's found in a number of fruits and vegetables. When you provide your body with carotenes, the liver can send carotene-rich blood through the subcutaneous fat up to the skin. Foods high in beta-carotene include mangoes, papayas, sweet potatoes, raspberries, colorful melons, and leafy greens like spinach.

* Sweet potatoes are known to help brighten the appearance of scarring. Cooked and cooled mashed sweet potatoes can be used in a DIY mask at home (I like to add raw honey) to help smooth and lighten the skin.


My Top 4 Favorite Supplements For Acne Scarring:

Silica - is an essential beauty mineral that supports the formation of collagen and can be easily absorbed by the body unlike trendy collagen supplements.

MSM - Is known to prevent cross linking in collagen (natural process in scar formation) and help to rebuild tissues. This supplement is praised for its hair, skin, and nail benefits.

L-Lysine - Essential for the production of collagen & Elastin. This incredible amino acid is way more than just an essential building block for protein. L-Lysine is known to support a healthy immune system, and supports the growth and quality of skin, bones and tissue.

Vitamin C - Promotes skin health by supporting collagen production and antioxidants may help protect cells from free radical damage.

The takeaway: It takes synergy actions and lifestyle changes to transform the skin. Understanding and preventing acne and acne scarring, using supportive skin care at home, enjoying a variety of nourishing skin foods, and getting help from a trusted skin care professional can all support improving the appearance of the skin. It is also important to remember if you are using exfoliating ingredients, or having resurfacing treatments done to protect your skin from peak sun exposure, and wear a mineral based SPF as the skin might be more sensitized. 

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